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How to install a rigid kitchen carcass

How to install a rigid kitchen carcass

We are now ready to show you how to install a rigid kitchen carcass after contemplating the creation of you're a possible new career in kitchen fitting. Who think before investing in the plaster fell from walls, pipes flooded the kitchen units and the wall collapsed.

For those of you who have already written sign of the van, and congratulations to those of you fill the "tools for sale" ads, hang fire, replace the pencil with a cordless drill and would not give up so easy.

Selecting the right base units

Rigid kitchen carcass base units vary a lot from one make to another so make sure you read the instructions and are also highlights the differences between manufacturers. Most have adjustable legs fitted for easy installation and prevent water intrusion.

I like to have a working void at the back of all my rigid kitchen carcass base units with a channel at least 18 mm from the building with a backing of at least 9 mm thick metal panel face and soft close drawers again with a solid base of at least 15 mm on board. Rigid units save installation time, but otherwise, have no great advantage over flat pack units.

Many manufacturers build coordinated channels that match door finishes. This is a useful asset when ends are visible, but as an alternative that can fit in a coordinated end support panel or even a door fascia.

Most channels are built using melamine chipboard and particular attention be given to the sink base cabinet will be very vulnerable to water ingress over your life. To counteract this problem, I have developed a product called Unit saves. I hasten to add that I am still awaiting a call from a cabinet maker who sees the product as a great addition to your range so that even then I am afraid that is not available to the consumer.

Tools you will need:

Screwdriver

Cordless screwdriver

Drill

Long electrical lead

Various screws and nails

Patience

Installation

Packaging must begin at the corner of the kitchen. Starting at the highest point on the ground, a level line must be transferred to the walls that mark the finished height of your cabinets.

Angles are usually available in two configurations, an L-shaped unit, usually, 900mm wide and a conventional corner cabinet available in sizes 900mm to 1200mm. If the design then allows one the other or both will be suitable for your kitchen.

Adjust the legs to secure the cabinet meets the line and, using a spirit level, adjusting to ensure unity and lead level. Continue with the previous method, with every post and clamp units ensure that all edges are of colour and level.

To connect the units together, use clamps inside the units is on the upper and lower units, ensuring that the front and top edges are coloured. When clamping together protect units by using hardboard off cuts or similar behind the jaws.

Remove one screw from each hinge plate back and rotate the back plate to expose area behind. Using a bit of wood 5 mm, is part of drilling through the channels first behind the hinge back plate and fix the two together with a cordless screwdriver using 18mm screws and 30mm screws for 25mm units 15mm. Replace the back plate and fix. This will serve to conceal the fixing. However, if both units are connected to the closing side door - use the same procedure and the screw cap.

When ends are not visible, it is advantageous to cut the gap in services at the bottom of the cabinets out of 80mm full cabinet depth of the top of the unit. This will help overcome any plastering truth behind the base units and provide an easy means of wires behind the unit after mounting.

Most manufacturers use a vacuum of service of approximately 50 mm in the rear of the base units and this is essential not only for plumbing and electrical services but also to mark the walls if necessary. To ensure that no gaps are visible where the last unit and the wall may have to enter the cabinet. For this, the Cabinet-level and subject to the adjacent leaving 30mm proud of the leading edge, clamp the units together, set the compass to 30 mm between the pencil and the point and run the point on the compass down the wall keeping in parallel with the pen tip. The pencil line on the left in the housing act as a guide for cutting with a jigsaw. After cutting, assembling the cabinet as described above. This will leave a perfect finish to the wall.

When all the cabinets are razed and in its place, it is necessary to repair the walls. This is only necessary for Gable's alternates. Holding a 25-mm right angled support wall and against a gable interior. Mark through the bracket with a pencil on the wall and drilling in a downward angle. Insert a stick and attach to the wall by a screw of 50 mm. Attach the cabinet to support the fence with a screw of 16 mm.

Conditioning apparatus

An important thing to remember is that when fitting a conventional corner cabinet has a device fitted on the return, enough space to open the door to the 90? and to ensure that the appliance door is opened without authorization to violate the doorknob. This may require the installation of a corner fillet produced at the site but will ensure that your dishes can be placed in a dishwasher fully open.

Remember to adjust the base unit of the kitchen extractor. This task takes precedence over all others for the proper functioning of the extractor. It may be necessary to change the position of the corner unit, but this can be modified again to use a fill at the base of the corner.

During the assembly of integrated devices will have to leave a space between the cabinets. Using a straight wood or stand, clamp and colour of the cabinets level and use this as a guide for installing the next cabinet sure to leave proper space between units and this applies to the front and back. This method also applies when mounted units on both sides of an independent or kitchen range.

Well, that's all, you are ready to countertops, these come in various materials, the most popular being laminated. In the next article, I will be explaining how to install countertops and appliances.

Finally, for those of you still debate over whether to call the installers nearest the kitchen, I would like to offer some words of encouragement.

My first installation was carried out within the limits of Southport Zoo. Just had a variety of hand tools, electric drill, a jigsaw of second hand and a strong desire to finish my first kitchen without any problems. I did so, after three weeks.

It took me so long to complete to install a glass screen for visitors to see the monkey in the installation of the kitchen.

So do not throw in the towel, sell the tools, put on overalls and give him another go. It's so easy a monkey could do it.